From the writers at Surfing Magazine.
The RV is parked outside a school in downtown Oakland but it didn’t stay there too long. The sun rose big and bright over the bay and we were treated to a live performance of a postcard on our way to Ocean Beach.
We arrive and it looks good. Or bad. Or alright, but only spottily and with a whole lot of awful required to reach it in the form of a torturous paddle out. You had to be lucky. Damo was — he got a good one and came in. Kerrzy wasn’t. His advance to the outer bar lasted over an hour (not exaggerating) and the only reward he received came in the form of two of the most average waves of his life. That’s life. But when the boys got in, we felt the magnet that is Maverick’s pulling us towards Half Moon Bay. That’s life too, maybe.
To read the full story in Surfing Magazine, click here.